Swimming is possible from all the major centres along the west coast, but tends to be better and the waters calmer towards the north. There are few beaches on the east coast aside from Long Beach on the southern tip of Koh Chang.

With 52 islands in the Koh Chang National Park, it's no wonder that diving and snorkeling are popular. White Sands Beach and Bang Bao have the biggest concerntradions of dive shops, and most boats leave from the pier at Bang Bao. As well as dive sites around Koh Chang itself, there is some spectacular underwater scenery to be had around the small islands of Koh Rung and Koh Khlum, south of Koh Chang. Divers used to be able to float around two submerged Thai warships of the south-eastern tip of the island, but these were covered over by silt years ago. There's a slew of companies offering snorkeling trips to the s and many resorts rent out gear.

Other water-based activites include sailing and kayaking. These are best done from Bang Bao and Salak Phet. A new business is offering kayak rentals and tours around the island's largest mangrove forest on the east coast. Ko Chang may well be following in Phuket's footsteps, but you won't yet find the horrible jet skis that tear around Phuket's beaches offering rides to swimmers.

It's possible to trek from Khlong Prao on the western side of Ko Chang to the village of Dan Mai in the east via a jungle path. The path passes the Khlong Phu and Than Mayom waterfalls, as well as a number of plantations growing rare fruits.

Thanks to the national park many species of wildlife survive on the island, including pigs, primates, snakes and lizards. Masses of fireflies light up the night sky along the canal at Khlong Prao. Once upon a time the island's monkeys used to come down to the beach for a regular dose of salt from the ocean, but because of development this is mainly limited now to the eastern and southern fringes.

The Koh Chang Animal Foundation does excellent work taking care of the island's many dogs and other domestic and wild animals, and is always looking for volunteer vets and nurses.

Koh Chang means "elephant island" in Thai, so it's appropriate that there's two camps offering elephant trekking on the island. Baan Kwan Chang orgnaises treks into the island's interior from the northern village of Khlong Son. Chang Chutiman Phone: (09) 9396 676 offers trekking from Khlong Prao.

Treehouse bungalows organise survival trips for 1,000B. The idea here is that you get dropped off on an unihabited island somewhere in the Ko Chang group and have to dend for yourself for 24 hours. Treehouse provides essentials such as water, food, a tent and fishing equipment, but after that you're on your own.

For party animals, White Sands Beach and Kai Bae offer the best nightlife. Different tastes are catered for here as well, karaoke crooners, disco dancers, and those who like to sit on a bar stool with a frothy glass of beer and watch the soccer will all feel at home somewhere on the island.

Masochists and hedonists alike will be pleased by the many opportunities for tattooing and massages on the island, and you can delight your tastebuds by learning a thing or two about Thai cuisine by taking a cooking course at Khlong Prao.

Koh Chang's mountainous terrain supports six waterfalls, and swimming and camping are usually possible nearby. Most convenient to the beaches in the west are the Nang Yom waterfall near Khlong Son and Khlong Phu waterfall near Khlong Prao. Most popular for Thai visitors is the Than Mayom waterfall on the eastern side of the island near the national park head office. This waterfall has four levels and an area for swimming at the bottom. Tents can be rented from the park office. About 10 minutes north is the Khlong Nonsi waterfall. Further south near the village of Salak Phet is Ko Chang's tallest waterfall, Khlong Nung, and a smaller waterfall called Kheeri Phet.

Technically, entry to the national park which covers virtually all of Ko Chang bar the coastal fringes costs 200B for forigners and about 20B for Thais. At most of the access points for the waterfalls this is not enforced, but expect to pay up at the more popular falls such as Khlong Phu, where you'll also be charged 20B for parking your motorbike.